Tracking Two Weather Windows

In the past few days, two weather windows emerged for potential summit attempts, each with risks. The first was for May 20-23, which carried a significant risk of being disrupted by Cyclone Tauktae. 

The other potential weather window was for May 25-27+. Just Sunday, some of the mountaineering-focused meteorologists really seemed to be leaning towards that window. Hearing them, and then watching so many teams do something counter to what these meteorologists were saying, made it clear that each team was weighing the variables differently. 

It appears that the worst of Cyclone Tauktae has now passed and the teams that positioned themselves to take advantage of the first window--including Peter's and Eric's team--are now well-positioned at Camp 2 and 3, ready to move up. And, today, one of those meteorologists (Chris Tomer out of Denver) said he now sees a second cyclone building that could impact that second weather window. 

Also, today I read that the Icefall Doctors will stop maintaining the route through the Khumbu Icefall as of May 29. (I posted about the Icefall Doctors in this post if you don't know about them.) I think that means that all teams will need to be back in Base Camp by that day since it would be unsafe to travel through the Icefall if the ropes and ladders aren't being maintained.

All these details make it look like Peter and Eric are as well-positioned as can be to take advantage of the best weather options. Great news!

As I'm getting ready for bed today, I can see that Madison Mountaineering is on the move to Camp 3 (it is Wednesday morning in Nepal). Seven Summits Club, from Russia, had been at Camp 2, but went back down to Camp 1 yesterday to watch the weather. I can't wait to talk to Peter about these decisions, how they weigh the slightly lower and less taxing elevation of Camp 1 with the energy expenditure to get down there and then back up. So far, I don't see any movement from the individual climbers I'm following on the CTSS or IMG teams which makes me think that they're likely to move tomorrow along with Peter and Eric.

Exciting days ahead!
Camp 2, photo: Pemba Sharwa

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