Messages from Eric from the South Col

Gosh. I slept 11 hours last night! Was more tired than I realized. Crammed in a tent with a Sherpa and our little cooking area. Slept like a pretzel. In the far corner. Woke up occasionally to move crooked limbs and neck. But feel fine and ready to go if conditions allow. I am welded to my oxygen mask! Only take it off to eat and then not for long! 

The wind has calmed down considerably this morning. So maybe there is hope. Last night and all through the night was Armageddon. That was the consensus last night in a meeting between Don and the Sherpas. It's clear that the Sherpas have the final say. They have families too and do this for the money. They are not willing to risk frostbite or death. We will see what they say tonight. 

 Jake the other remaining climber, intended to summit without oxygen and did great up to camp 4. But considering the wind and crowds started using it last night. Don, our western guide, also made it to camp 4 without oxygen but said the last hour was horrible and is now on O. Something we all take for granted but obviously the key to life. I think there is around 30% of the O content at this altitude. Not sure. 

There are maybe 8 Sherpas with us now. Not sure as they arrived at different times. The Sherpas started using oxygen when we got to camp 4 last night. There is just so little to breathe. Although they can get by without it while cooking or eating better than I can! 

The Sherpa who shares the tent, Ang Dawa, has 4 kids. Age 5-15. He says all of the Sherpas come from the same village and grew up together. He has been guiding me up the mountain. Never seems to eat or drink or get tired. Although he seemed pretty pooped last night. 

I'll be on a strict diet of hamburgers and pizza when I return. I've lost quite a bit of weight and generally don't have a lot to spare. Peter was talking about fried chicken before he left. Boy was it tempting to jump on that helicopter with him. 

Glad it's interesting to others as well. It's a revelation to see what Everest is about beyond all the hype and popular stories. The reality is so much more. Every corner I turn and ridge I climb is such a new discovery. The most frequent thought I have is "wow! I had no idea". 

When we got in last night, it was a graveyard of destroyed tents. People were frantically trying to reassemble tents. I saw one get the door pulled open while 3 guys were wrestling with it. It filled with wind and the poles started bending. It felt like chaos. That went on all night. Freezing cold. I wore my down suit inside my -25 sleeping bag and was fine. 

There was a tough almost vertical climb just near the end. At sea level, piece of cake. Up here it took all I had. I can see how it could just be too much for others. And climbers were sort of stumbling into camp taking frequent breaks to sit down at the end. 

A couple more notes on Sherpas. Dan said they are the equivalent of NFL players in status and income in Nepal. They are the super athletes of Nepal. Dan said they make enough in the 2 month climbing season to support their extended families for the year. Dan is paying them all the summit bonus. Not just the ones that support Jake and I individually. They also get thousands for carrying loads up to the camps. 

Just went out and saw a long line of climbers coming back from the summit. Some looked exhausted. Some looked OK. Still looks windy as hell up there. Impressive about those who summited. I spoke to one Sherpa (not sure of his name) and he said they would not have gone. The frostbite danger is too high.